The Bundar Smiles

Dated 14/12/04

It has been less than 24 hours since we have landed. N’s sisters (Appa and Baji) and my dear 14 year old niece took me to the tailor. The tailor, which the family has used for many, many years was very nice. He stitched my cupre and has been working on my gharara for the valeema (wedding ceremony). His shop seemed to appear out of the middle of nowhere. The shop was very, very small and extremely simplistic.

While we were there discussing fabrics and alteration styles, the last prayer of the day, the shan, was called. At this time you could hear a very loud, echoing voice vibrating through the streets. The presence of this voice was powerful and almost eerie. The women quickly pulled their dubutta atop their heads during the public prayer and I followed suit.

Appa and Baji told me consider which joras I might want stitched. This experience is all very exciting and overwhelming. For the first time in my life, I am being encouraged to design my own clothes. Pick the material and pick the design and you can have a unique set of clothes.

Afterwards, we went to the market for a quick peek. I saw lots and lots of cupra cloth, bangles, purses, trinkets, hair clips, bath robes, etc. Some men were begging, some men were guarding stores with rifles between their legs or a pistol in their hands. Women in burquas and women with their heads uncovered. The whole scene was very loud and colorful. One man was begging and he had his bundar (monkey) doing tricks. Afterwards, he was given some change and he tried to make the monkey smile. He kept forcing his fingers into the monkey’s mouth trying to get it to smile.

Several “unis” or unisex people approached our car begging for money, too. The uni culture appears to be quite large and self-maintaining here. The mystery is why so many people are born that way. I have read and seen many report of the prevalence in India as well. Appa always gives to unis without question. Her grandma taught her that these people suffer beyond our recognition and if they ask for help, one should always give it.